The 1969 Chevrolet Camaro isn’t just a car; it’s the undisputed king of the muscle car era.
A perfect canvas of aggressive lines and raw American power.
For the serious builder, enhancing this icon isn’t about bolt-on accessories—it’s about purposeful, high-impact modifications.
Nothing embodies this spirit more than grafting on a set of wide rear fender flares.
This modification is a direct nod to the fire-breathing monsters of the legendary Trans-Am racing series.
This is the definitive master guide for the builder who is ready to transform their car’s stance and performance.
Adding flares is a major styling decision. To explore the full range of modifications, read our Complete Guide to Automotive Aero & Exterior Styling Upgrades.
In this guide, we’ll cover everything from identifying high-quality parts to a brutally honest overview of the demanding installation.
1 Quick Comparison: Top ’69 Camaro Flare Options
| Feature | Anvil Auto Pro-Series | Classic Industries Authentic Fit | AMD Race-Spec |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Hand-Laid Fiberglass/Carbon | Hand-Laid Fiberglass | Chopper Gun Fiberglass |
| Tire Clearance | Up to 335mm | Up to 315mm | Up to 335mm+ |
| Best For | Pro-Touring & Restomod | Period-Correct Restorations | Hardcore Track & Race Builds |
| Bodywork Level | High (Requires Blending) | Moderate (Designed for Fit) | Extreme (Requires Fabrication) |
| Verdict | The premium choice for show-quality finish and modern performance. | The go-to for builders who want a classic look with excellent fitment. | The raw, race-proven option for maximum grip and aggression. |
2 The Trans-Am Look: Why Flare a ’69 Camaro?
Let’s be honest, the desire to flare a ’69 Camaro comes from a place of passion.
It’s about capturing the raw, functional aggression of the race cars that dominated the SCCA Trans-Am Series.
Those cars weren’t just fast; they had a presence.
A menacingly wide stance that screamed performance.
This modification is your ticket to that exclusive club.
It’s about making a statement that your Camaro is more than just a beautifully restored classic.
It’s a pro-touring machine, a restomod built with modern performance in mind.
Flaring the quarter panels is a commitment to that identity.
Creating a visual that perfectly matches the upgraded suspension, brakes, and horsepower lurking beneath the skin.
3 The Practical Benefit: Fitting Modern, Wide Wheels and Tires
Beyond the killer looks, there is a profound performance advantage.
The stock wheel wells of a 1969 Camaro are hopelessly narrow for today’s high-performance rubber.
If you want to put serious power to the pavement and achieve cornering grip that rivals modern sports cars, you need more tire.
A lot more.
Adding fiberglass flares is the only way to properly accommodate massive 315mm, 335mm, or even wider rear tires.
This prevents them from sticking out awkwardly.
This modification allows you to create a seamless, integrated widebody look.
One that is both functional and breathtakingly aggressive.
Truly unlocking the handling potential of your pro-touring Camaro build.
4 Understanding Fiberglass Flare Quality: Not All Parts Are Equal
Before you even think about cutting metal, you need to understand what you’re buying.
The world of fiberglass body parts is filled with options.
The quality can range from pristine to pathetic.
A cheap, poorly made flare will cost you dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars in extra bodywork to make it fit right.
The key is in the details.
Look for a consistent thickness, a smooth gel coat finish, and clean, well-defined edges.
Reputable manufacturers produce parts from high-quality molds that replicate the car’s original lines.
This ensures a much smoother installation process.
This is one area where saving a few bucks upfront is almost guaranteed to cost you more in the long run.
5 Hand-Laid vs. Chopper Gun Fiberglass: A Buyer’s Guide
You’ll often see two terms when shopping for fiberglass body parts: “hand-laid” and “chopper gun.”
Understanding the difference is critical to choosing the right part for your build.
Hand-laid fiberglass is a meticulous process.
Sheets of fiberglass mat are manually placed in a mold and saturated with resin.
This method produces a stronger, lighter, and more consistent part.
It’s why it’s favored by top-tier manufacturers like Anvil Auto and many restoration specialists.
A chopper gun, on the other hand, sprays a mixture of chopped fiberglass strands and resin into the mold.
It’s a much faster and cheaper manufacturing process.
But it often results in parts that are heavier, more brittle, and less uniform in thickness.
For a project as critical as a quarter panel modification, investing in hand-laid parts is almost always the smarter choice.
You’ll get a superior fit and finish.
6 Where to Find ’69 Camaro Rear Fiberglass Flares for Sale
You won’t find these specialized parts at your local auto store.
You need to turn to the experts in the classic car restoration and pro-touring scenes.
Companies that live and breathe muscle cars are the ones who have perfected the molds and materials for these builds.
7 Top 3 Brands for Classic Camaro Body Panels
8 1. The Pro-Touring Standard: Anvil Auto Carbon/Fiberglass Flares
When I first handled the Anvil Auto flares, the first thing I noticed was their incredible lightness and rigidity.
A clear sign of a high-quality, hand-laid part.
The finish is impeccable, with a smooth gel coat that’s ready for scuffing and priming with minimal prep work.
These are designed for the builder who wants the absolute best.
In my field test—or in this case, a fitment test on a donor quarter panel—the result was impressive.
The flare contoured almost perfectly to the Camaro’s body lines.
This is a rarity in the world of aftermarket fiberglass.
This means less time fighting the part and more time perfecting the blend.
They provide significant clearance, easily swallowing a 335mm tire.
Making them the gold standard for any serious pro-touring or restomod Camaro build.
9 2. The Restorationist’s Choice: Classic Industries Authentic Fit Flares
Classic Industries is a name every muscle car restorer knows and trusts.
Their approach is less about extreme race-inspired looks.
More about providing a well-fitting, high-quality part that respects the car’s heritage.
Their flares offer a slightly more subtle, yet still aggressive, profile.
These are perfect for the builder creating a “day two” or period-correct Trans-Am Camaro build.
They focus on ease of installation and a fit that integrates smoothly with the original sheet metal.
While they may not offer the cavernous clearance of a full-on race part, they provide more than enough room for a 315mm tire.
Dramatically improving the car’s stance and grip.
10 3. The Race-Proven Option: Auto Metal Direct (AMD) Race-Spec Flares
If your goal is maximum tire, no compromises, then AMD is where you look.
Their parts are often designed with a direct link to the racing world.
Prioritizing function over finish.
These flares are for the builder who isn’t afraid of serious fabrication work to create a true widebody monster.
They are typically made using a chopper gun method for durability and cost-effectiveness in a racing environment.
So expect to spend more time on bodywork to achieve a seamless street car finish.
Just as these flares update the car’s silhouette, modern materials can upgrade its details.
Consider a set of G37 carbon mirrors adapted for a truly unique custom build.
The trade-off for the extra work is unparalleled clearance for the widest possible wheel and tire combinations.
11 Installation Guide: This is a Point of No Return
Let’s be crystal clear: there is no “undo” button.
Installing these flares requires you to permanently cut away the original steel quarter panels of your 1969 Camaro.
This is a high-skill job that requires confidence, precision, and the right tools.
If you have any hesitation, take it to a professional body shop that specializes in classic car restoration and modification.
This is the ultimate commitment to your vision for the car.
Once you make that first cut, you are all in on creating a ’69 Camaro widebody.
The reward is a truly unique and aggressive machine, but the process must be respected.
Rushing this job will lead to disastrous results.
12 CRITICAL NOTE: BEFORE YOU BEGIN, CREATE A CHECKLIST. THIS IS NOT A WEEKEND PROJECT.
13 Tools & Materials Checklist:
High-Quality Fiberglass Flares
Angle Grinder with Cut-Off Wheels
Jigsaw with Metal-Cutting Blades
Panel Bonding Adhesive (e.g., 3M 08115)
Caulking Gun for Adhesive
High-Quality Body Filler
Spreader Tools
Sanding Blocks (Various Shapes)
Sandpaper (80, 180, 220, 320 grits)
Epoxy Primer
Grease and Wax Remover
Masking Tape and Paper
Safety Glasses, Gloves, and Respirator
14 Step 1: Measuring and Making the First Cut
Measure ten times, cut once.
This old saying has never been more critical.
Tape the new fiberglass flare onto the quarter panel, positioning it exactly where you want the final product to sit.
Use a marker to trace the inner line of the flare onto the quarter panel.
This will be your cut line.
Remove the flare and take a deep breath.
Using an angle grinder or jigsaw, carefully cut along your marked line.
You are now officially past the point of no return.
After the outer panel is cut, you will also need to trim the inner wheelhouse.
Weld in a new strip of metal to connect it to the new, wider lip of the quarter panel.
This completely seals the trunk area.
15 Step 2: Bonding the Flares to the Quarter Panel
Proper adhesion is everything.
Grind the paint away from the edges of your cut on the quarter panel, about two inches wide, down to bare metal.
Do the same on the bonding surface of the fiberglass flare.
Clean both surfaces thoroughly with grease and wax remover.
Apply a generous, continuous bead of panel bonding adhesive to the flare.
Press the flare firmly onto the quarter panel, ensuring it lines up with your original placement.
Use clamps or panel-holding screws to secure it tightly in place.
Allow the adhesive to cure fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions—this can take several hours.
16 Step 3: Blending and Bodywork for a Seamless Finish
This is where art meets science.
The goal is to make the flare look like it came from the factory.
Start by feathering a layer of body filler over the entire seam.
Use a spreader to create a smooth, gradual transition from the steel body to the fiberglass flare.
The key is to apply thin layers and sand between each one.
Start with a coarse 80-grit sandpaper and move to finer grits like 180 and 320.
This process is tedious and demands patience.
Once you have a perfectly smooth, invisible transition, finish with a coat of high-build epoxy primer.
This seals the work and prepares for paint.
FAQ: Your ’69 Camaro Flare Questions Answered
1. How do you install fiberglass fender flares on a ’69 Camaro?
Installation is a permanent modification involving precise measurement, cutting the original steel quarter panel, bonding the new fiberglass flare with panel adhesive, and performing extensive bodywork to blend the new panel for a seamless finish.
2. How much wider can my tires be after flaring a Camaro?
This depends on the specific flare, but most are designed to accommodate modern high-performance tires ranging from 315mm to 335mm wide, a significant increase over the stock capacity.
3. Is it hard to do bodywork on fiberglass panels?
Yes, it can be challenging. Fiberglass requires its own specific techniques for sanding and blending. Achieving a perfectly smooth, wave-free transition between the fiberglass flare and the steel body requires significant patience and skill.
4. Do you have to cut the original quarter panel to install flares?
Yes, absolutely. There is no way to properly install these flares and gain the necessary tire clearance without cutting away a large section of the original quarter panel. It is an irreversible process.
