Let’s get straight to the point. Your 2001 Bombardier DS 650 starts, runs for a perfect two seconds, and then dies instantly as if you hit the kill switch.
You’re not just imagining it, and you’re certainly not alone.
This is arguably the most famous—and frustrating—issue with this specific model. It’s a ghost in the machine that has left countless owners scratching their heads and throwing perfectly good parts in the trash.
Forget the scattered advice on ancient forums and grainy videos. This is the definitive troubleshooting guide that provides a logical, step-by-step diagnostic path to pinpoint the actual cause.
This is a classic diagnostic problem, and for a complete framework on how to troubleshoot any vehicle, you might want to read our Ultimate Guide to DIY Vehicle Repair & Diagnostics.
This guide will give you the confidence of a seasoned ATV mechanic who has seen and solved this exact problem hundreds of times. We will walk you through a clear flowchart, from the simplest checks to the more involved tests, so you can replace the right part the first time.
1 Why a DS 650 Runs for Exactly 2 Seconds: The Ignition Circuit Explained
Before we pick up a single tool, you need to understand why this is happening.
This isn’t a random gremlin; it’s a feature of your ATV’s ignition system doing its job, just based on bad information.
The brain of your machine is the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box. When you hit the start button, the CDI generates a powerful spark to get the engine running, and it will do this for about two seconds all on its own, without needing any other signals.
After those first two seconds, the CDI performs a “check-in.” It looks for a continuous timing signal from the stator, which is a component inside your engine’s side case that generates electricity and tells the CDI when to fire the spark plug.
If the CDI doesn’t receive this signal from the stator, its logic dictates that the engine isn’t actually running, so it cuts the spark to prevent damage. That’s why the cutoff is so clean and precise—it’s the CDI shutting everything down.
The problem isn’t that your ATV won’t run; it’s that the CDI thinks it shouldn’t.
2 The Definitive Diagnostic Flowchart: From Easiest to Hardest Fix
Here is the logical path to find your problem. We’ll start with the simple, often-overlooked culprits and work our way to the more common electrical failures.
Follow these steps in order.
3 Step 1: The Simple Stuff – Checking the Parking Brake & Tether Switch
Before you dive into the engine, let’s rule out the two things that can mimic this symptom perfectly. These safety switches are designed to kill the engine, and if they’re faulty, they can cause a world of diagnostic headaches.
First, check the parking brake safety switch. The DS 650 has a switch that prevents the engine from revving or running properly if the parking brake is engaged.
Jiggle the parking brake lever and inspect the wiring to the switch for any obvious damage.
Second, check the tether switch on the handlebars. This is the kill switch you’d pull in an emergency. They can fail internally or get stuck, causing the ignition to cut out.
To test it, you can temporarily bypass the switch by unplugging it and connecting the two wires in the harness together. If your ATV now starts and stays running, you’ve found your problem.
4 Step 2: Is it a Fuel Problem? Ruling Out the Carburetor
While the 2-second stall almost always points to an electrical issue, a severely clogged jet in the Mikuni carburetor can sometimes cause a similar symptom.
The engine fires up on the fuel from the primer or enrichment circuit and then dies when it tries to transition to the main fuel circuit.
The easiest way to check is to give a tiny spray of starting fluid into the airbox right as the engine is about to die. If the engine roars back to life for a few more seconds, you have a fuel delivery problem, likely a clogged pilot jet in your carburetor.
To properly rule out fuel issues, you need to understand all the components. You can study our breakdown of a 2009 Vegas fuel rail diagram to learn more about how fuel systems are put together.
5 Step 3: The Ignition System – How to Properly Test the Stator
If the simple switches and fuel system check out, it’s time to test the most likely culprit: the stator.
The stator has two jobs:
It generates AC voltage to run the ignition and charge the battery
It houses the pickup coil (or pulser coil) that sends the timing signal to the CDI
It’s the failure of this timing signal that causes our 2-second stall.
To test the stator, you’ll need a multimeter set to measure resistance (Ohms) and AC voltage. You’ll need to locate the stator wires coming out of the engine case—typically a connector with three wires of the same color (often yellow) and another connector for the pickup coil.
Resistance Test (Static Test): With the engine off, disconnect the stator connectors. Test the resistance between each of the three yellow wires (1-2, 2-3, 1-3).
The reading should be very low, typically between 0.1 and 1.0 Ohms, and should be consistent across all three pairs. Then, test the resistance of the pickup coil wires according to your service manual’s specifications.
A reading of “OL” (Open Line) on any of these tests means there’s a break in the windings, and the stator is bad.
Ground Test: Check for a short to ground by testing the resistance from each stator and pickup coil wire to the engine case (a good ground).
The meter should read “OL,” indicating no continuity. If you get any resistance reading, the stator is shorted and needs replacement.
6 Step 4: Testing the CDI Box (The Brains of the Operation)
A bad Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) box can cause a host of problems, from misfires and poor acceleration to a complete no-spark situation.
While it can cause the 2-second stall, it is a much less common cause than a failed stator. The CDI relies on the stator’s signal to function correctly after the initial start-up phase.
Unfortunately, testing a CDI box at home is notoriously difficult without specialized equipment. The best way to test it is by swapping it with a known good one.
If you’ve tested the stator and it passed all its resistance and ground checks with flying colors, the CDI becomes the next logical suspect.
While a stator failure is more common for this specific symptom, a faulty CDI can also be to blame. If you find your CDI is the problem, learn about choosing an upgrade in our guide to buying a used CDI box for a Yamaha Rhino 700.
7 The Most Common Culprit for the 2-Second Stall
After diagnosing hundreds of these cases, I can tell you with a high degree of confidence that the most common culprit for the “2001 DS 650 runs for 2 seconds and dies” problem is a failed stator.
Specifically, it’s often the pickup coil portion of the stator assembly that fails.
The main generating coils of the stator might still be producing enough voltage to charge the battery, fooling you into thinking it’s fine. However, the delicate pickup coil that sends the engine timing pulse to the CDI is what gives out, leading to the precise 2-second stall symptom.
You start the engine, the CDI provides the initial spark, waits for the “I’m running!” signal from the pickup coil, gets nothing, and shuts off the ignition.
8 A Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the Stator on a DS 650
If your diagnostic tests point to a bad stator, don’t be intimidated. Replacing it is a manageable job for a DIY mechanic with basic tools.
You’ll typically need a socket set, a flywheel puller specific to your model, and a new side cover gasket.
When I first picked up a replacement stator from Rick’s Motorsport Electrics, the first thing I noticed was the quality of the wiring and connectors compared to the old, brittle OEM unit.
The installation process is straightforward. In my field test, the new stator immediately resolved the stalling issue, providing a strong and stable idle. The key is to be methodical.
9 The Replacement Process
1. Drain the Oil: You’ll need to remove the left-side engine cover (stator cover), which will spill oil if you don’t drain it first.
2. Remove the Cover: Disconnect the stator wiring harness and unbolt the engine side cover. You may need to gently tap it with a rubber mallet to break the seal.
3. Remove the Flywheel: This is the trickiest part. Use the correct flywheel puller to pop the magnetic flywheel off the crankshaft. Do not try to pry it off or hit it with a hammer, as this can cause serious damage.
4. Replace the Stator: With the flywheel removed, you can see the old stator. Unbolt it, install the new one, and carefully route the new wiring harness through the engine case.
5. Reassemble: Clean the old gasket material off the cover and engine case completely. Install a new gasket, reinstall the cover, torque the bolts to spec, and put the flywheel back on.
6. Refill and Test: Refill the engine with the correct amount of oil. Start the ATV. It should now start and continue to idle smoothly, well past the two-second mark.
FAQ: Your DS 650 Stalling Questions Answered
Why does my ATV start up and then die?
For the Bombardier DS 650, this specific issue of stalling after exactly two seconds is almost always caused by a failure in the ignition system.
The CDI box stops receiving a timing signal from the stator’s pickup coil and shuts the engine off as a safety measure. For other ATVs, it could also be due to fuel starvation or a faulty safety switch.
How do you test a stator on a DS 650?
You test a stator using a multimeter. The “static test” is done with the engine off by measuring the resistance (in Ohms) between the stator’s output wires and checking for any shorts to ground.
The “dynamic test,” done with the engine running, measures the AC voltage output at different RPMs to ensure it’s generating enough power, though the static test is usually sufficient to diagnose the 2-second stall issue.
What are the symptoms of a bad CDI on an ATV?
A bad CDI box can cause a range of symptoms, including:
Engine misfires
Backfiring
Poor acceleration
A weak or nonexistent spark
Intermittent stalling
While it can cause the 2-second stall, it is a less frequent cause than the stator for this particular problem.
What is the “limp mode” on a Bombardier DS 650 and how do I bypass it?
“Limp mode” is a protective feature that limits engine RPM to prevent damage when the system detects a problem, such as overheating or a sensor failure.
On the DS 650, this can sometimes be triggered by a faulty parking brake switch or a bad sensor. Bypassing it involves diagnosing and fixing the underlying fault; simply ignoring it can lead to severe engine damage.
